The Beauty of Corn: A Journey Through the Palatinate Region
Credit…Chris Simpson for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Eleni Pappas.
In the picturesque Palatinate region of Germany, sprawling fields of cornstalks line the narrow, winding roads that connect various charming villages and towns. The majority of this corn is not intended for human consumption; rather, it serves as animal feed. A corn-fed Southerner like myself might think, “Lucky animals!” However, according to my fiancé’s great-aunt Margit, who graciously hosted us throughout the summer, the German maize is primarily starchy seed corn, destined for pigs, cows, and chickens. It differs significantly from the plump, sweet corn or the familiar bags of frozen kernels that fill grocery store aisles in the United States.
Our culinary preferences often seem arbitrary, and to truly appreciate the foods we consume, one must sometimes view them from a fresh perspective. Raised in Georgia on an array of corn-based casseroles, stuffings, breads, and salads, I had taken corn for granted more than I realized. This oversight is regrettable because corn is a remarkable ingredient—it’s corn!
If you happen to be John and Becky Altobelli of Kinderhook, N.Y., you likely recognize and celebrate corn’s exquisite beauty. On their cherished family farm, the Altobellis cultivate a beloved local corn variety that is not only sweet but also bursting with rich flavor—a taste so unique that it can only be fully appreciated by those who have experienced it firsthand. For me, fresh sweet corn, with its aromatic, savory essence and vibrant chamomile-yellow hue, is more than just a staple; it’s a seasonal delight—a fleeting pleasure that has, over the years, prompted me to exclaim, “Ah, now that’s what corn is meant to taste like!”
Recipe: Mayo Corn Fried Rice
For those immersed in the corn industry, like the Altobellis, the most effective way to capture and preserve such an ephemeral taste is through freezing. They have mastered this technique: Begin by boiling whole, shucked corn cobs for just a few minutes until their pale hue transforms into a brilliant yellow. While freezing raw kernels is perfectly acceptable, the University of Minnesota advises that blanching the corn first helps prevent bacterial growth during freezing and inactivates enzymes that could otherwise compromise the color, texture, and flavor.
Once blanched, cool the corn in an ice bath to halt the cooking process, then set it aside to dry. Carefully cut the kernels off the cobs, rinse, and drain them thoroughly. Portion the kernels into freezer bags, pressing out as much air as possible before sealing. A good rule of thumb is to account for about seven ears of corn per quart-sized bag.
