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How Do I Decide What Socks to Wear?

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I love socks. But should I be styling them to match the hem of my pants or the color of my shoes or the color in my top? — Nancy, Croton-on-Hudson, N.Y.


As far as I am concerned, socks are the underappreciated star of the accessories universe. Handbags get most of the attention, ties and watches a bit, but socks, despite the fact that they are an essential part of everyone’s wardrobe, are often treated as an afterthought, the footwear equivalent of the undershirt.

Maybe this is a hangover from the days when, as Cole Porter sang, “a glimpse of stocking was looked on as something shocking,” but the general approach to socks seems to be: Make them as invisible as possible. If that is the goal, then matching them to your pants is a no-brainer; doing so creates the illusion of an uninterrupted line, adding length to the legs. To make them look even longer, match the shoes, too.

If you are wearing a skirt, adopting the nude-socks-with-nude-shoes solution, as originally championed by the stylist-turned-designer L’Wren Scott, is another technique that elongates the limbs. By contrast, matching your socks to your top, a variation on the sandwich technique, may result in visually squishing the legs. (Of course, if you want to make your gams look shorter, this works pretty well.)

But there is another option, which is to treat your socks the way people now treat their handbags: as flags of personality. Even if your socks are covered by trousers, they are revealed as soon as you sit down and your pants leg pulls up a bit, a peekaboo moment that everyone can see. That means socks are a statement, whether you like it or not.

So why not be a little more deliberate? That does not necessarily mean embracing the novelty or joke sock, unless you have a specific reason for doing so.

Justin Trudeau, the Canadian prime minister, is a master of the arka of sock diplomacy, tailoring his stockings to his schedule and using them as a form of outreach. He has, for example, worn “Star Wars” socks on Star Wars Day (May the Fourth) and rainbow socks that read “Eid Mubarak” to march in a Pride parade that happened to coincide with the holiday that marks the end of Ramadan.

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